Thursday, November 8, 2012

A Ride To ‘Gateway of Western Ghats’ - Kemmanagundi!!


“The beauty of nature is holy,
Like Shiva’s shrine;
Come to these lovely hills,
Which fill you with spring’s sunshine”




This is what Rastriya Kavi (National Poet) Kuvempu sang when he first visited Kemmanagundi. Kemmanagundi (or Kemmanagundi) derives its name from three Kannada words - Kempu (red), mannu (soil) and gundi (pit) and means a place with red soil. Kemmanagundi once belonged to Krishnaraja Wodeyar IV, the Maharaja of Mysore, who built a summer palace here. He later donated it to the Government of Karnataka. Legend has it that Kemmanagundi was called “Chandra Drona Parvatha” in the Puranas.

Destination: Kemmanagundi
Location: Near Chikmagalur, Karnataka
Distance covered from Bangalore (Two day round trip): 583 km

Day 1:

It was a beautiful Friday, the day before we started our ride for Kemmanagundi. We were super excited about this ride… specially me who was going for the first 500+ km ride after I earned Nandi. After our office on Friday, we that include Suraj, Sagar (Dubey Brothers) and I packed our luggage. By the time we were done packing, it was 1.00 am. As we were planning to start our ride at 4 – 4.30 am, we hardly had any time to sleep. Sam joined us at 3.30 am. Around 4.20 am, we left my place. It was still dark and chilly. All of us were super excited about the ride so who cares about damn weather. We planned to ride following route to reach our destination.


Not taking proper rest was taking a toll on our ride, Sam was damn sleepy. Not a good sign. We had to keep her awake till sunrise. After couple of stops and tea breaks, we somehow managed it. Riding on open highway (Bangalore-Tumkur Highway) with a picturesque sunrise was just an amazing experience. Just before Tumkur, we had to take right for Gubbi. This is where you say bye to six lane highway. It was all dark and colourless before sunrise which turned into a colourful canvas post sunrise. We were riding on two lane highway now.





It was around 7 when we reached Gubbi. The town was very quiet and not many people were out on road; a lazy Saturday morning. We had Tatte Idly for breakfast in Gubbi (I think having Tatte idly for breakfast during every ride has become a kind of ritual).

One thing which you will notice very significantly while riding towards Kemmanagundi is the ever changing colour of soil. I personally have seen Red, Black, Yellow and orange coloured soil before as well but this entire colour rainbow while covering such short distance was mesmerising. This moment, you see everything (even poles and trees were no exception) around you in fresh bright red shade, couple of ten kms and it turns into pale yellow. However, it doesn’t stop there and keep changing after every few kms.



After cruising on NH 73 & NH 69 and passing places like Tiptur, Arsikere, Banavara and Kadur, at around 12 pm, we reached Birur. From this town onwards, a new journey begins on country side roads. Our destination was still 30+ kms away from us. We were heading towards Lingadahalli, which is about 15 kms from Birur. Once you reach here, you can see Kemmanagundi on horizon.








It is hot and humid here but temperature starts dropping once you start moving towards Kemmanagundi. We crossed Kalatipura. After this village, upward journey starts. For first half, road is nothing but awesome. However, last 10 km will give you an experience of off-roading (Got the hint???). No road, just a red trail (Yup, road does look like a trail) surrounded by breath taking lush green beauty. Though we were enjoying it to the fullest, we were trying to get on top ASAP… Really hungry.








You can aaram se call Kemmanagundi ‘Gate of Western Ghats’ as it is the beginning of Western Ghats. Vegetarian canteen (which incidentally also serves non-veg) is the only place you find food in Kemmanagundi.  After consuming food full of stomach, tiredness started coming to us. It was time to find Rain Basera (Place for stay). The only Govt. guesthouse in Kemmanagundi was full and we had to look for alternative which can squeeze in our budget. There are many home-stays available around Kemmanagundi (but expensive) and the only option we were left with was down the hill, Kalatipura.


Canteen watchman helped us by sharing one of the guy’s number who runs home-stay in Kalatipura. His name was Jude and he told us that he has a dorm which can easily accommodate four of us. Next thing we were doing was riding towards our night stay, about 10 kms away, in Kalatipura village.

Attached bathroom, hot running water, fresh bed sheets and amazing landscape was more than what one can bargain for 300 per head / day. Its 3 pm now. Stomachs full of food and tiredness from ride soon took over and we fell asleep.

Our original plan was to get up by 6 pm so we can go up the hill and enjoy the sunset. However, it was 7.30 pm when we got up (More tired than expected). Considering the delay we decided to not go all the way up. Instead, we went to another falls, apparently 5 km up the mountain, called Kalatigiri Falls. It is also a religious place and witnesses a small temple that is sandwiched between the waterfalls and rocks. Being a quintessential Indian temple, it retain idols and stone sculptures of the predominant God and Goddesses that turns this place into a pilgrimage destination as well.



It was pitch dark and we could hear only two sounds which includes running water and Crickets. While enjoying music, being created by wind blow, mixing with Crickets’ chirping, we realised that we were hungry again. Soon, we were back in home stay.


Jude, Homestay owner suggested Giri Gandrva Dhaba, which is about couple of kms towards Ligadahalli. There was power cut in the village and so it was pitch dark. Sagar & I left to buy some food. This dhaba, we got our food from, is right in the middle of nowhere. But, once you find it and taste its food, you will never forget it. We had awesome Panjabi food that night with some brandy and little wine. Don’t know what time I slept off.





Day 2:

Next day morning, we were again late by almost 3 hours (Woke up at 7.30am). We were still feeling little tired but after taking hot water bath, tiredness magically disappeared. We left Homestay at 8.30 am, had breakfast and started moving up the mountain, towards Kemmanagundi. We were half way through when we saw this small water fall. It’s fresh & crystal clear water was surrounded by lush green vegetation, right beside the red trail (remember the road description??). We decided to give it a stop for some time.




Next, we were sitting on wet stones surrounded by fresh water. It was soooooo refreshing. After spending almost 30-45 min here, we decided to resume our journey. That’s when the disaster happened.







My bike is not starting. Suraj, Sagar & I, we all tried fixing it but no use. We decided to roll it down the hill so that we can reach Kalatipura and find mechanic. Luckily, we found one, but he had no clue about how to fix a Thunderbird. It was not before he wasted almost an hour and half trying to fix Nandi. He suggested taking it to Lingadahalli, 7 km from here where we will find bigger garage. We bought rope which villager use to tie Buffalo, tied my Nandi with Sagar’s bike and started our journey towards Lingadahalli.  Riding on a bike tied up with another bike was a difficult in the beginning and a different experience but it worked.


In Lingadahalli, we found this Garage on T Junction. Mechanic’s name was Munna. He started working on my bike. After almost 3 hours, he figured out that it was a snapped wire inside the headlight dome, which was causing all the trouble. It was already 3 pm and we decided to start our return Journey.

We stopped in between to refill our tanks and stomach. We didn’t have much time before we lost daylight advantage. We planned to cruise non-stop for about 100 km to get max out of it. Rest of the journey was event less and we reached home by around 10 pm.


Where to stay:

If low on budget –

1.        Try Govt. guest house at Kemmanagundi (Advance booking is required but almost always full)

2.        Jude’s Homestay – Kalatipura, Contact no. – 9008135416, 300 – 400 per head budget

Other expensive options (1000 – 4000/- per head / per day) –

1.       Ozone Valley - Contact No. – 9448971207, 9448727717, 08261-215078; 1500 – 4000 per head

2.  Joes Homestay (Hill View Cottage) - 09164676308(mobile), 9449414130(mobile), 0934360488, 08261686450, 08262222329, Tariff starting from 1100 per head

Where to fix your bike: (Though, I wish you never face this)

Munna – ‘T’ junction – Lingadahalli (7 km from Kalatipura) – 09972761314 (A really skilled mechanic)

Photo Courtesy: Sam 

Sunday, September 30, 2012

Devarayandurga - 3940 ft closer to god, literally!!!





Destination: Devarayandurga
Location: Off Bangalore-Tumkur (NH 48) Highway, near Dobbspet, Karnataka
Devarayandurga stands for: Altitude of 3940 ft, 13 hair-pin bends, Surrounded by beautiful hilltops, mesmerizing view, trekking trail (not an easy one), Temples and Amazing weather (18-22 C temperature)
Distance covered from Bangalore (one day round trip): 167 km
Date: August 12, 2012



Devarayandurga, famous for its temples, isn't as big as some of heavy hitter places around Bangalore for one day trip; perhaps that's what makes it different and interesting.

Riding is an addiction. It has been long since my last trip to Yelagiri Hills. The concrete jungle and its routine life have become unbearable, an indication of hitting the road, yet again. After a long brainstorming and considering many options, I chose Devrayandurga as a destination.


First a little dope about the place. At an altitude of 3940 ft, Devrayandurga is a hill station cum religious destination near Tumkur in the state of Karnataka. It is surrounded by several hilltops and wide spread forest. It is otherwise popular for temples including the famous Bhoganarasimha and the Yoganarasimha temples. These twin temples, built in the Dravidian style of architecture are said to have been constructed by Kanthirava Narasaraja I who was the Wodeyar ruler of Mysore for 1638-59 and later, were repaired in 1858 by then Mysore king Krishnaraja Wodeyar III. This place also hosts a small sacred pond called 'Narasimha-Teertha'.


I was planning to ride solo this time. However, I asked Dilip, my friend and to my surprise, this time he agreed to join me for ride. It was an overcast morning, a pleasant day for ride. I left home at 7.30 am. I had to pick up Dilip from his PG in Koramangala. Despite giving him gyan about the importance of proper gears for riding, there he was standing outside his PG wearing a sports tee and shorts, ready for the ride.

It was quarter to 8. We left his PG and headed towards Mekhri Circle, from where we had to take Tumkur Road. This six lane Tumkur highway (Also known as NH 75) is a rider's delight; time to hit fifth gear. A rider can enjoy the ride here without worrying about stray animals (and for that matter people also) as the whole road is barricaded from sides. The weather was soothing and I could feel the chill in air. Rides like this give you the feeling of being alive.

We crossed Nelamangala (about 30 km from B’lore) in no time. From here, while riding towards Dobbspet, we crossed a toll plaza and couple of more small villages before stopping for breakfast. The Tatte idly was delicious which was served with Mirchi Bhajji. After getting recharged, we resumed our ride.

After reaching Dobbspet, one has to leave highway and hit the service road, parallel to flyover. Keep going straight and you will see first crossing under the bridge, skip it and keep going straight. Take the second right under the flyover for Devrayandurga.


Couple of more kms and we saw sudden change in the landscape. We were riding on country side road surrounded by beauty of nature. It's a two lane nicely laid road and provides you a great ride. Riding on highway feels good but nothing can beat the experience of riding on nicely laid country side roads. Here, man-made infrastructure becomes a part of Mother Nature and blends in it.

On our way, we crossed Uradigere town. Once you cross this town, you have already covered 2/3 journey for your destination. Cover about 20 km till the time you see a road split. Last couple of kms before reaching, road is not in its best condition and we found quite a few potholes. Standing here, on our left, we had the first glimpse of the beauty of our destination. 

We took left from this split which enters into an arch. It is a 7 km upward journey from here. The landscape changes quickly and we found our self on a single lane surrounded by lots of flora and fauna (Feels like riding in forest).

After covering another couple of kms, we stopped next to the small pond to enjoy the beauty around us. After 5 mins short break and clicking couple of more pics, we were back on our way. The road is not in great condition here. Tar from the road is washed off by rain and you will find concrete coming off the road. However, you will be so lost enjoying your surroundings, you will barely notice it. We had to take right from another split which comes after covering another km or so.

 
There are total 13 small hair-pin bends. I called them small because contrary to other hill stations like Yelagiri, Ooty or for that matter Nandi Hills, you barely cover 50-100 mt between two bends. Also, as it is a single patti road, it turns into a raw experience and trust me, you will love riding on it.

















Once we crossed 11 hair-pin bends, we came across a parking which will lead us to the Yoganarsimha Temple. However, we could see the road going further up. We decided to follow it and found ourselves surrounded by few abandoned buildings and lots of flora. These building were in bad shape, mostly destroyed by natural calamities. I parked Nandi between to such buildings and decided to explore more on foot. We reached this huge rock which was apparently also a view point. View from here is picturesque. When you sit here, it looks like you are experiencing a huge canvas. Miles long flats and then this mountain breaking the symmetry and then again flat which ends into a range a blue mountain rage, like a border for this multi-colour, mesmerizing experience.





We clicked a lot of pics here expecting to capture some of this beauty in our camera and spent quite some time here. It was 11 am now. We roam around trying to locate this Ram temple, for which we saw the board while coming up. When unable to find it, we gave up and started moving down, towards the parking to visit Yoganarsimha temple, located on the adjacent peak. We crossed first turn and that is when Dilip saw this weird small white wall beneath the rock we were sitting on. It also head one small window size door. We were sure about it being temple but still were unable to find the path which will lead us to this temple.

After spending 5 mins, the idea clicked and we decided to follow it. Bang on, and we were in that temple in no time. Trick to identify the path is to stop when you see a small board on second last turn which says 'Way to temple'. It might look like the temple is further up the mountain but it’s not the case. Right behind this board is an unpaved, almost hidden path which will take you to this temple. It was quite some exercise before we could enter this temple.

This temple is made in a natural creak in rock foundation and covered by man-made wall to make it look like a temple. There is barely any space inside to sit straight, forget about standing. In here, we found idols of Ram, Laksman, Sita and Hanuman. We set there for about 5 mins. This is where we met a group of three friends. It was a group consisting one member each from Lucknow, Bangalore and Kerala. It was really an interesting encounter. In the era of this globalization where there are more English speaking people outside Britain, this brother from Lucknow still thinks that people who speak in English are either 'Angrez' or have 'Descendant from them'. He thought that Dilip, who is Mal by birth and brought up in Bangalore, is from some Latin American country, just because he was talking to me in 'Angrezi'. It was hilarious. After spending fun time with them, we left that place and parked Nandi at that crowded parking.

It is not that easy to reach out to God. We had approx 100+ odd steps (Tried counting them but lost the cont in between) in front of us. However, we were so involved in talking, we didn't realise reaching the temple. This is where you have to separate yourself from your footwear. Inside temple, there were so many monkeys and devotees were keeping feeding them. After Darshana, we came out of the temple and found a small pond called Narasimha-teertha.

After spending sometime here, it was time for some trekking. First thing about this trek is to find out where to starts from. Here is the tip. Don't waste your time, just follow others. The trek here is little tricky. Most of the time, you will be surrounded by plants, uneven surface under your bare feet (Yes, it’s insane but you heard it right; for max fun, do it bare foot). After tunnelling through the flora around, we found ourselves on a flat plateau. The view is amazing from here but best is yet to come. Second part of trekking is different. It is a mix of stones, sand and mud and gets really tricky as you reach towards top.


Once you reach top, first thing greets you for your efforts is a cool fresh breeze with a little hint of dew in it. The instant effect, you will no longer feel tired. This point is 3940 ft high from sea level and is all stone, no mud. It also has one man-made stone structure (Something similar to Stonehedge but on a very smaller scale and stony roof). This point gives you a panoramic, mesmerizing view. Just sleep on those rocks and keep your eyes open staring clouds. Soon, you will have this illusion of flying. It will give you adrenaline rush and will scare you at the same time. We spent a lot of time up there. Now, we were hungry and only thing we could think of were those Aloo & Mirchi Bhajji with hot tea, all the way down, in parking place.

Getting down was even more difficult but we managed it. Soon, we were at bhajji stall, having hot bhajjis with hot cup of nice tea. This is the only hot stuff available up there. it was 3.30 pm. On our journey back, we stopped near the same pond near hill's base. Return journey was more or less event less; except that we had couple of breaks in between for Dilip's all-time favourite Chai. We were back in town and it was just 5.30 pm. Evening was getting young and there were more plans for evening. I dropped Dilip at his PG and returned to my place, on my way, already thinking for next trip and possible destination.

Directions: Directions from Bangalore to Devarayandurga



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